The Swiss don’t celebrate Thanksgiving in the American style1, and Christmas has been sneaking into the windows of stores and neighbors. There’s at least one Basel event that provides a buffer between Halloween and Christmas markets, and that event is Herbstmesse (Hèèrbschtmäss in Swiss German), the Autumn Fair.
The Basel Herbstmesse started in the 15th century. According to the fair’s website, the fair came about as a way to improve the city’s economy. “As a Free City of the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation,” Basel required the emperor’s approval to hold a fair. The city first attempted to get that approval in 1459, via the Pope, who sent German Emperor Frederick the III a letter on behalf of the city. The letter got lost. More than a decade later, Basel mayor Hans von Bärenfels resurfaced the fair idea, the city council appealed to the emperor, and on July 11, 1471, the mayor got a letter of approval granting Basel privileges for a spring and an autumn fair. The spring fair didn’t last. The first autumn fair took place on October 27, 1471, and it’s still going.
The fair starts on the Saturday before October 30, with the ringing of the St. Martin’s church bells to signal the opening. The bell-ringer earns a set of gloves for his duty, in parts: one glove for ringing the opening, the second when he rings out the fair two weeks later. For the first 15 minutes, the fair rides are free for children (I heard it was an hour, but I guess that’s too generous).
Gabe and I only made it to the fair a week later, on Friday evening. The fair has multiple locations throughout the city; you’ll find clusters of food stalls, rides, and games by the cathedral, the exhibition hall where Art Basel happens, the square by the university, and the park by the old barracks. First stop: sausage at Barfüsserplatz (Barefoot Place) Then we hiked up to the cathedral. We rode the bumper cars; Gabe drove, I took pictures and shouted, “NO, a child!” as if the child didn’t get into a bumper car expecting to be bumped. We rode the giant Ferris wheel, which I’d imagined would be romantic. Instead of a private car (which you can pay for), we shared it with a German teen and her mother, who coughed the whole ride. We bought some chestnuts and headed home.
I have a vague memory of attending the Autumn Fair in kindergarten, the only time we visited Switzerland from Texas in the fall. I remember bumper cars, cotton candy, lots of lights and music. For years, every time I rode past that square on the tram, I thought, “Oooh, Herbstmesse rides.” I have been looking forward to attending my first-in-forever Herbstmesse.
On Monday, I returned to explore some of the other fairgrounds to see what Herbstmesse had to offer. I went back to the Messeplatz of my childhood memory and wound my way through people eating churros, raclette, crepes, hot dogs, burgers, rösti (hash browns), and chocolate covered fruit (including kebab-ed grapes, which I’ve never seen). I watched people on Midway rides like the Lion, a Tower of Terror-style ride, where the ride operators played Beyonce’s “Break My Soul” as the elevator hoisted people 85 meters into the air.
At Petersplatz, the square by the University of Basel, mini-chalet stands lined the paths below the trees. Walking past stands filled with socks, scarves, hats, jewelry, books, lanterns, and candles (including a Yankee candle stand) reminded me of the Kentucky State Fair’s exhibition hall, except at Petersplatz, shoppers are exposed to the elements. There’s an alley reserved for the Hääfelimäärt (little pot market? But like kitchen pots, not marijuana). Since 1877, potters have sold ceramics in this spot during the Herbstmesse. At the center of the square, there’s a gorgeous, two-level carousel that’s on my Herbstmesse 2024 list.
The Autumn Fair arrives as the clocks change, bringing a little light and joy to the 5 p.m. darkness. We can see the Ferris wheel from our third story (recognized as the second story if you’re here, the ground floor isn’t counted as the first floor) skylight. Based on the lights standing around the main shopping street, Christmas will start as soon as the Autumn Fair ends tomorrow. I liked my second Herbstmesse and look forward to walking around it next year.
Today in Swiss German
One of the many food items available at the fair is Magenbrot, or stomach bread. It’s little pieces of dough spiced with ginger and clove, sometimes anise, sometimes covered in chocolate. I’m anise-averse, so Magenbrot will not be on Linda’s Autumn Fair Faves.
There’s a Federal Day of Thanksgiving, Repentance and Prayer celebrated everywhere but Geneva. It’s on a Sunday and doesn’t involve turkey
I laughed out loud at “NO, a child!” because I could hear you saying it. And I have distinct memories of tears in the bumper cars my first time because I didn’t realize how hard, abruptly, and constantly I’d be bumped. So good looking out, in my opinion. 😂 How was the double-decker carousel? That sounds so fun!
I love these dispatches. And Mrs. Mais! How utterly creepy! You can buy and eat her little mais children that live inside her stomach! She reminds me of a deranged Mr. Peanut, (tho deranged is an adjective I guess I don't need when it comes to Mr. Peanut.)